You probably already know my fetish about doing things as naturally as possible. So I was looking for a natural non-toxic wood finish to go along with the natural non-toxic wood stain that I am using for my daughters sign. The sign won’t be under a lot of use so any of the following finishes will probably work. I haven’t really decided which one to use yet, but it was fun doing the research and I thought you might be interested in what I found. I may even do a little experimenting, if I have time, before I fully decide what to use for the sign.

I love the idea of all my wood being finished naturally, but you may not have the same fetish. Even if you don’t mind working with the “toxics”, you will still want to make sure to use a non-toxic, food safe finish for all of the following wood items: Kitchen Utensils such as wooden spoons, Cutting Boards, Butcher Blocks, Wood Countertops, Tables, Children’s Toys and any other surface that may come in contact with food.

I also have some furniture projects in the making and I have been contemplating the idea of using Tung Oil on some of them. I have never used pure Tung Oil before, but it sounds like the best non-toxic choice to me. I’m really excited about trying it and I will let you know how the furniture projects turn out.

Shellac is another finish that is also intriguing to me. I remember things being finished with shellac when I was a child. However, I don’t think I will be using shellac on furniture since it is susceptible to so many common household items such as alcohol and perfume. We use a lot of alcohol on electronics here and I’m also a big user of essential oils; so I’m sure it would only be a matter of time before we ruined the finish on any piece of furniture I used shellac on. I think it would be perfectly fine on picture frames, wood baskets or little trinkets that don’t run the risk of spills. Hopefully I will get the chance to try it out soon.

Be careful in choosing the products you plan to use. Before using a commercially made product, be sure of what they are made from. Often commercial products are combined with chemicals and metals to make them easier to use, dry faster or various other reasons. Unfortunately, some producers will try to deceive you by making their product appear to be safe when it actually is not. Check the ingredients, if you are still unsure of what is in the product, do an online search for the products “Safety Data Sheet” before using it.

Another note, organic is good when buying food but it isn’t necessarily good when talking about chemicals. There are a lot of organic chemicals that are really bad, so don’t think a product is safe because it says “organic”. Calling a chemical organic simply means it contains carbon and almost always contains carbon and hydrogen. Benzene, carbon tetrachloride, and trichloroethylene are all organic chemicals; they are also carcinogenic and there are many more hazardous organic chemicals used in the paint industry.

I also want to put forth a couple more precaution before getting into the Non-Toxic Wood Finish list. Just because something is considered non-toxic doesn’t mean it isn’t flammable. In fact, discarded oily rags can spontaneously combust because oil can heat up as it dries and oxidizes. Waxes are also combustible around heat.

We cook with oil all the time, so don’t let that scare you, just be safe! In fact rags or paper towels that are soaked in cooking oil should be disposed of in the same way. They too, under the right conditions can heat up and spontaneously combust if wadded up and thrown in the trash.

To properly dispose of oily rags, do not wad them up! If you plan to use the rags again, put them in a bucket of soapy water. If you are going to discard them, take them outside and spread them out in a fire safe place or hang them over a metal rack away from anything that can catch fire. Once the rags are dry they should be okay; however it can take several days for them to dry completely.

Now on to the Non-Toxic Wood Finishes.

There Are Two Types of Wood Finishes,

The two types of wood finishes are surface sealers and penetrating sealers. As far as natural non-toxic wood finishes go, the surface sealers are probably not going to be any more protective and may be lesser protective than the drying penetrating sealers. For commercial products, surface sealers such as urethane, polyurethane, varnish and lacquer are most likely better at protecting the wood; but it comes at a higher price, both monetarily and health wise, if you happen to be the person applying the finish.

Surface sealers remain on the surface and can be, but not always, more protective than penetrating finishes. You can also use more layers for more protection. Surface sealers can also be used in combination with some penetrating finishes to add more shine or durability.

Penetrating sealers are actually oil, and soak into the wood. They come in two forms, drying or non-drying. A drying oil is one that cures and turns solid over time. Since it turns solid it protects better than non-drying oil. Penetrating sealers also provide a natural look, bringing out the grain of the wood and leaving a satin finish. Although drying oils are more protective than non-drying oil, they are not as protective as commercial surface sealers.

Non-drying oil also penetrates the surface of the wood but it doesn’t truly provide a finish. It’s more like a wood treatment and has to be re-applied often as it can be washed off and transferred to items that come in contact with it.

Following Is a List of Non-Toxic Wood Finishes and Treatments

Shellac

Shellac is a surface sealer that comes from the Lac bug. It is harvested and mixed with ethyl alcohol. Don’t worry; the alcohol will evaporate after application. Shellac is good for blocking both tannins that can bleed through paint and also odors. It is good for sealing out moisture and can leave a glossy finish if applied thickly and buffed out. Wax can also be applied over the shellac. Shellac will bond with almost everything but it is susceptible to alcohol, alkaline chemicals and perfume. However, if the finish is damaged it can easily be repaired. Mixed shellac can degrade over time so it should be used within 3 years. You can buy Shellac Flakes and mix your own to insure freshness or you can buy premixed shellac in a can. Shellac is even used on some food products such as fruit and candy.

Pure Tung Oil

Tung Oil is a drying oil and comes from the seed of the Tung tree. Tung oil has been used for centuries and at one time was used to waterproof ships in China. Make sure the Tung Oil you purchase is Pure. Some company’s sale partially polymerized Tung oil or they mix their Tung Oil with other products such as solvents or metal compounds. Tung oil cures over time and hardens as it cures; it can take up to 30 days to fully cure. Tung Oil is very waterproof and can be used outdoors; it is also not affected by alcohol, acetone or fruit and vegetable acids. Tung oil is known to accentuate the grain of the wood for a natural rich finish that slightly darkens the wood. If the surface does get damaged or worn, Tung Oil is easy to re-apply.

Walnut Oil

Walnut Oil is a drying oil that comes from walnuts. Although, once fully cured, it is not supposed to affect individuals with nut allergies; precautions should be taken. For those without nut allergies, Walnut Oil is perfectly safe and non-toxic. Walnut Oil in its uncured state can go rancid so be sure it can air out and cure unobstructed after applying.

Raw Linseed Oil

Be sure to buy Raw Linseed Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil has additives and regular Linseed Oil may be mixed with other chemicals. Linseed Oil is a drying oil that comes from flax seeds. Linseed Oil protects wood from the sun and water; but it can take a long time to dry usually a few weeks but sometimes as long as a month.

Using Waxes for a Wood Finish/Sealer

Waxes by themselves do not offer much protection to the wood and are not actually a good primary sealer. However, they can complement other finishes such as Tung Oil and Shellac. Waxes are only slightly water resistant and are susceptible to alcohol. Wax can also melt off of the surface or down into the wood if it gets too hot. Waxes can also be hard to remove without using a solvent.

Beeswax

Beeswax is a surface sealer that comes from bees. Bees make a honeycomb to store their honey in and beeswax is the honeycomb. Like everything else, beeswax may be mixed with other ingredients and is often mixed with turpentine. Make sure of what you are buying. Beeswax by itself is sticky and moderately soft. A better choice may be using a combination of beeswax and carnauba or beeswax and Food Grade Mineral Oil, to get the best of both sealers. Beeswax is used in and on food products such as fruit, gel capsules and chewing gum.

Carnauba Wax

Carnauba Wax is a surface sealer that comes from the leaves of the carnauba palm. Carnauba wax is one of the hardest waxes and can have a glossy shine if polished before it dries. It can also be mixed with beeswax to make it easier to buff and for added water-resistance. Carnauba Was is used in food products such as candy coating, fruit snacks and gummies.

Paraffin Wax

Paraffin Wax is a surface sealer made from petroleum. I’m not sure I would exactly consider it natural, but it is considered to be non-toxic. It is also non-acidic and won’t harm antique finishes. It is food safe and is commonly used to seal jelly and preserves.

Food Grade Mineral Oil

Be sure you use Food Grade Mineral Oil. Food Grade Mineral Oil is non-toxic and non-drying. When using Mineral Oil it must be re-applied often or cracking can occur. Mineral Oil can also be mixed with beeswax. It is mostly used on butcher blocks and cutting boards. Mineral oil is used in the food industry to lubricate machinery.

Fractionated Coconut Oil

Fractionated Coconut Oil is a non-drying oil. It can be used for cooking and is commonly used in skin products. It is virgin coconut oil that has been distilled allowing the long-chain fatty acids to separate and solidify. The solids are then removed leaving a light odorless coconut oil that stays liquid at room temperature and slows rancidity. Some people do use coconut oil on their furniture, but I didn’t really find anything about using coconut oil as a wood finish from any “authoritative source”. Coconut Oil is used for cooking and in many cosmetics.